Arriving in Berlin, the first thing you'll notice is how cool it is. And, no, we're not talking about the temperature, though that may be the case too, depending upon when you go. Rather, we're talking about this central European capital's vibe. Just being there, wandering the old streets between houses once belonging to European elite, hobnobbing in funky bars and quirky cafés with well-heeled Berliners, exploring art museums and vintage boutiques, and stumbling onto outdoor concerts will make you feel that much cooler.
Before you go, it's easy to forget that just twenty-one years ago, most of Berlin was still part of East Germany and, thus, the former Soviet Bloc. Indeed, you may even be surprised at how little of Berlin belonged to West Germany; pretty much all the happening areas in central Berlin now lie in parts of the city once (still?) filled with concrete, Stalinist architecture. That's part of what makes Berlin so fascinating. You think you're going to just another picturesque Western European city only to arrive and find a city still adjusting out of Eastern European Communism. Baroque-era mansions sit side-by-side with concrete block apartment complexes for a strangely harmonious effect. The generation coming of age there now is the first still alive to not have experienced life in the DDR (Deutsche Demokratische Republik).
Even beyond the Soviet Bloc, Berlin's rich history is seamlessly woven into the city. An international arts and culture capital for centuries, it remains a hub for artists and musicians of all sorts, from graffiti artists to classical musicians, from filmmakers to architects. The Museum Island (Museumsinsel) - between the Spree and Kupfergraben rivers that bisect the city - is not just a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but has housed, since the mid-1800s, five of the world's best art and history museums. Of course, it's impossible to forget the history of Nazism in Berlin, but Germany has done an impressive job of owning that complex past. Some of the most moving and interesting memorials include the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe - just a stone's throw from the Brandenburg Gate - the Jewish Museum, and the memorial to Goebbels' book burning in the Bebelplatz.
Don't think, though, that the city is all about its history. Berlin is certainly looking forward as well as back, what with its young populace and trendy scene. Escape to one of the ultra-cool neighborhoods, like Friedrichshain or Prenzlauer Berg, pick a corner market to get some fixings for a picnic, explore the tree-lined streets until you stumble upon one of the many parks, wander through some clothing and design boutiques, and then, just as you're getting tired, relax outside with a drink at a busy café or beer garden. Make friends with some chatty Berliners - most people here speak English - and get yourself invited to an art opening or underground club for a fun night out.
Not convinced of jaunting off to Berlin yet? Perhaps we can appeal to your epicurean side; after all, the city's got an abundance of incredible food. And it's not all heavy spaetzle, schnitzle and wurst, though we confess to loving those too, as well as the significantly lower price of scoring a fantastic meal here (compared to Western Europe, anyway). Don't forget the outdoor food markets, temperate climate, and that Berlin's streets are some of our favorite to get lost in. All that's left now is to pick your artsy boutique hotel - options abound - and escape to our favorite Central European city this fall, when the weather will be ideal.
Don't forget to send us a postcard!
xo,
your jauntsetter team
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Trip Details
When to Go
For being so far north, Berlin has a surprisingly temperate climate, making it a pleasant escape most of the year. We wouldn't recommend the dead of winter, unless you're looking for a wintery escape - in which case, we think it would be lovely - but anytime April through November should be perfectly enjoyable.
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Length of Stay
We feel like we could move to Berlin and never tire of it, but that's not practical travel advice. A week in Berlin would be an ideal escape from daily life, but keep in mind that there's lots more of Germany to see, too.
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Getting There
Berlin has two major airports , Tegel and Schönefeld, both of which are close enough to the city for a reasonably-priced cab ride. A 20-minute airport shuttle runs between Tegel and Alexanderplatz, one of Berlin's major transportation hubs, stopping at various points in the city center on the way. Schönefeld can be reached by special half-hour Airport Express regional trains that run every 30 minutes from the Berlin Hauptbahnhof (the central train station), stopping also at Friedrichstrasse and Alexanderplatz. All flights directly from New York land in Tegel, though if you're coming from elsewhere in Europe, you may land in Schönefeld.
We're also big fans of the comfortable and efficient German train system, the Deutschbahn, should you decide to travel around Germany, or the rest of Europe.
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Getting Around
We've mentioned how easy it is to get around Berlin on foot - at least, around the center and within each neighborhood - but the public transportation system is equally amazing, should you need it. Made up of a variety of vehicles and modes of transportation, the system is clean, efficient, and, of course, on time. How German.
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[Pictured: Sofitel Berlin Gendarmenmarkt, our midrange pick]
Where to Stay
Below are our top hotel picks but should you be open to renting an apartment (our favorite kind of accommodation for city visits) check out Brilliant Apartments. With rates starting at about $100/day, this collection of affordable flats are all located in the city center, and the apartment rental service itself gets universally positive reviews.
Our Budget Pick: The Circus Hotel
Located close to the action in East Berlin, this pleasant, modern spot offers a very tasty - we can vouch for it - 8 euro organic breakfast until 1pm (perfect for those who sleep in), free WiFi, and a friendly staff that will assist with bike and car rentals. Warning: the hotel's green-friendly philosophy means there's no AC, but, lest you visit during a heatwave, you'll be fine.
Tip: If you go to bed early, request a room that's *not* facing the courtyard. People tend to drink and socialize here during the evenings. Hopefully, though, you'll be joining them! Singles start at $100/night.
Our Midrange - and #1 - Pick: Sofitel Berlin Gendarmenmarkt
Though we're normally loathe to recommend a chain hotel, the Sofitel in Berlin in an exception: with just 92 rooms and a modern, minimalist design, this particular Sofitel is striving for high-design and a low staff-to-guest ratio. It's also home to a large rooftop gym and a central location in Mitte, one of our favorite 'hoods in Berlin. Even better, there's a "stay 3 nights, pay for 2" promotion going on for the hotel over on Tablet, bringing effective room rates down to as little as $139/night should you take advantage of the deal, which is good through December 2010. Get more info on the special here.
Tip: ask for a room facing the Gendarmenmarkt square, rumored to be the most beautiful in Berlin.
Our Splurge Pick: Schlosshotel Im Grunewald
If you're really looking to splash out on your hotel experience in Berlin, consider the Schlosshotel Im Grunewald. Though other luxurious hotels exist closer to the city center, what the Schlosshotel lacks in proximity to Berlin proper it more than makes up for with service, intimacy, and character. With a private garden, small indoor pool and spa, classic library, and a peaceful location in a residential neighborhood, you'll love returning to this oasis after a long day walking the streets of Berlin. Plus, the hotel will send a limo or car to pick you up and drop you off, for about 15 euro, and the metro is a lovely 10-minute walk away. On that note, an Audi is available to pick you up at the airport for free. And while prices start at $250/night for a stay at the Schlosshotel, we think the splurge would be worth it for a special trip.
Tip: Avoid Suite 10, which is right above the bar and can be a bit noisy on weekend nights.
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[Pictured: the Reichstag, which houses Germany's parliament]
To Do
- Get Lost: Have we mentioned how much we love walking around Berlin? Take your map if you have one, but put it firmly in the bottom of your bag when you set out on foot. Turn down interesting streets and you never know when you'll stumble upon the boutique holding your next pair of shoes, the café with the best hot chocolate you'll ever taste, a secluded park shaded by linden trees, or maybe even the Ramones Museum.
- Take a Tour: Usually, we're the last ones to talk up guided tours, but we have to recommend the free New Berlin Tour, which is categorically one of the top five tours we've ever taken. The well-informed, entertaining guide will show you the highlights of central Berlin's historical and tourist spots, and actually gives you some real insight into the city and its culture. Just be sure to tip well, because the tour guides don't get paid.
- Go Out: For those who like to party, we have it on good authority that Berghain is literally the best club ever. Be aware that they sometimes turn people away for no reason.
- Catch a Concert: While there are plenty of music venues throughout Berlin, one of our favorite spots to catch music of all sorts is Waldbühne, located in the forest just outside the city. Also, it's often easy to get last minute tickets to the Berliner Philharmoniker an hour before the show - be sure to check out the building's bizarrely cool architecture when you go.
- Be Cultural: No Berlin trip would be complete without at least a few museum visits. Some of our favorites include the Pergamon on Museum Island, where the Pergamon Altar and Babylon's Ishtar Gate have been recreated; the beautifully designed Jewish Museum of Berlin; and the Hohenschonhausen Memorial Center, a former Stasi prison deep in East Berlin that runs tours.
- Eat and Drink: We could give you an endless list of foods to try and places to eat, but we'll let you discover most of Berlin food culture for yourself. If you're looking for a starting point in Mitte, the city's hip central neighborhood, try the lovely, low-key Café St. Oberholz or Alpenstuek for something a little fancier. Get off the beaten path by heading to Friedrichshain for the rest of your night - wander around to discover some of the city's ultra-cool bars.
- Go Shopping: Make sure your pocketbook's ready for all the shopping you'll be doing here. Head to Mulackstrasse in Mitte for fancy boutiques, or go northward towards Prenzlauer Berg for tons of awesome vintage stores. We hear great things about Paul's Shoes on Oderberger Strasse.
